Shawn Lane Tuning Stability Question

[steven96]

Hi all!
I recently picked up a new Shawn Lane Master signature model and can't quite get the guitar to stay in tune when bending and using the trem bar. I can tune the guitar up, bend a string and then the string will go flat. I can then tune back up to pitch and then any subsequent bends stay in tune. However the string goes sharp when I dive the bar. Alternatively, I can tune to pitch, use the bar as much as I want and have the guitar stay in tune but then when I bend, the string is flat again.
1. Is there something wrong with my setup here? I've lubed the nut, zero fret, saddles and this happens to me when the trem is decked (which is how it was setup at the dealer) or if the trem is floating.
2. I notice that the wrap from my strings extends onto the saddle itself. This is not the regular string wrap but the thicker part at the bottom of the string near the ball end. This section of the string doesn't look very smooth and I suspect it could be catching onto the saddle or something similar.
I'd love to get the guitar playing as good as it can. Everything else is great expect this. Has anyone dealt with this or have any solutions?

Thanks

[marcwormjim]

I've owned a Master and a Natural. The ball end wraps should not be extending over the roller saddles. Otherwise, the culprit is often strings binding in the nut slots.

What brand and gauge string set are you using? Is the nut slotted for those string gauges? Is the trem currently floating, or docked against the body for diving only? How experienced are you with setting up other strat-style non locking trems? Are the ball-end string wraps coming up over the roller saddles for all strings, or only some of them? 


Assuming the nut is slotted for the gauge of strings being used, and that there are minimal string wraps around the locking tuner posts, my method is to tune all six strings up to pitch, then stretch a single string with my picking hand by pulling it up where it passes over the pickguard (this should make it return flat). I tune it back up to pitch, then repeat the stretching and tuning process until the string no longer goes flat. 


Once all six strings are stretched this way, I divebomb with the trem. This typically causes the strings to return out of tune. I go through a process similar to the first step; in which I dive the trem and re-tune until the string comes back to pitch when I release the bar. I then repeat this for all six strings. From there, I can return the strings to pitch with a short dive of the bar. If the trem is set to float, then I both divebomb and pull up on the trem in the course of getting the strings to settle in.


For me, the 2011 trem has never held tuning to the degree that a locking trem does - But it still works much better than other non-locking designs. 

[steven96]

Thanks for your answer
I'm currently using some Ernie Ball Slinky 9-42s which I believe is the same gauge as it comes from from the factory. When I got the guitar new I also noticed that the ball end wraps were coming over the saddles primarily for the low E and A string which is how it looks like today after I changed the strings.
I've been setting up non-locking trems for a few years now and some are better than others in terms of tuning stability. Anyone else have any experiences with the 2011 tremolo doing this?

[williamshane]

Your response is really appreciated. At the moment, I'm strumming along with a set of Ernie Ball Slinky 9-42s, which my best guess is are the factory-issued gauge. Today, after switching strings, the guitar resembles the one I received brand new: the ball end wraps are crossing over the saddles, especially on the low E and A strings.